A few cold nights ago I watched a 2006 Japanese movie called “Udon” on DVD. The title refers to the thick Japanese wheat-flour noodle commonly found in Japanese (and some Chinese) restaurants, and the movie uses udon as a central plot device to tell the main story. I didn’t snap any photos the last time I had some, but there are plenty on Google Images.
In a nutshell, it’s a slice-of-life, heartwarming story about an aspiring comedian returning to his hometown in within the Kagawa Prefecture after failing overseas- learning not only to appreciate udon, but his father and his father’s handmade udon. He learns the value of udon in lives of his hometown residents, and together with the ‘Noodle Gnostics’ bring about a short-lived Udon craze across Japan. The heart of the movie is a tale of relationships and personal growth, all revolving around the humble noodle. It’s a pleasantly lighthearted movie you should watch if you can grab hold of the DVD.
As the movie ends, the narrator/heroine voices over scenes of friends and families enjoying udon together:
For every place under the sun that people can call ‘home’, there is a ’soul food.’ Food that can elicit laughter and tears; food that satiates both stomaches and spirits; food that makes people happy. What is your ’soul food’?
It was a question I could immediately answer.
It’s been six years since I’ve migrated from my hometown Kuching, and Kuching surprisingly does have a de-facto ’soul food’ that relates to the movie. It’s called ‘Kolo Mee‘. Like the scenes in Udon, I have fond memories enjoying Kolo Mee with family, friends and recently, my missus.

A Heavenly Bowl of Kolo Mee (^~^)
Unlike udon (the noodle), Kolo Mee is uncommon outside Sarawak (my home state) and described in only a single sentence in the entry for ‘Kuching‘ on Wikipedia:
Kuching ‘Kolo mee’ or ‘koh-loh mein’ (egg noodles, flash-boiled and then served with (classically) garlic, shallots, minced pork, white vinegar, pork oil or in some cases peanut oil and sliced barbecue pork also known as “char siew”) this is a widely popular dish with the local population.
Considering how ‘widely popular’ it is, I wonder why no one in the ‘local population’ wants to do a full entry in Wikipedia… (-_-,)
In my opinion, Kolo Mee’s winning attributes are its:
- aroma; brought about the fried shallots,
- taste; not-too-salty and mildly-sweet,
- ubiquity; found in most eateries in Kuching,
- varieties; choose your noodle, garnish and/or topping, and
- price; approximately MYR3.00 (AUD1.20).
Where else can you find a meal for that amount? Although prices have steadily increased in the past decade, it’s still affordable for the average working Kuchingite. Kolo Mee is a dish enjoyable any time of day; most stalls operate from early morning to evenings, while others operate the other way round. Packed with carbs (and little else), a Kolo Mee diet is possibly one of the causes of potbellies commonly found among Kuching men. For some reason Kuching women are pretty slim, but I digress…

Kolo Mee Satisfies the Soul (and Wallet) \(^ ^)/
While ‘kolo’ itself refers to dry-style of preparation, the unique ‘mee/mien’ noodle forms the heart of what’s known as ‘Kuching’s Kolo Mee’; wavy in appearance, springy and firm in texture, and light in volume. Both machine and handmade types can be found around town, with the latter sometimes added with spinach to give it a greenish colour. Other noodle variants commonly used for Kolo Mee are Mee Pok and Kueh Tiau.

Kolo Mee Pok
Kolo Mee prepared by Muslims commonly use chicken, beef, or imitation meat made from bean curd in place of pork- this one in particular can be found in a stall operated by a Chinese Muslim in the food court behind the Crowne Plaza Riverside Riverside Majestic Hotel. Non-Halal Vegetarian Kolo Mee using imitation meat can also be found in a restaurant along Jalan Padungan.
In most hawker stalls in Kuching, your order of Kolo Mee can be customised to suit your palate with various garnish and toppings, depending on what they have stocked at their stalls. Common topping options include one or more of the following:
- Sliced barbecued pork (char siew)
- Minced meat
- Wantan; fried or steamed
- Meat and/or fish balls
- Sliced chicken
- Pork innards
- Sliced beef
- Steamed prawns
- Sliced fish cake
- Imitation crab sticks
- Various seafood
- Various leafy vegetables
- Mushrooms
- Salted vegetables
- Seaweed

Kolo Mee at All Joy, Wisma Saberkas: Look at the Balls on Those!
While there are many variations, most Kuchingites appreciate their Kolo Mee simple, topped with minced meat and char siew. This perhaps kills its marketability outside Kuching, where dishes tend to be more elaborate and use more ingredients. I doubt the common Kolo Mee would pass Australia’s health standards, either.

Kolo Mee with Char Siew and Chopped Scallions
Kolo Mee topped with wantan is commonly known as Wantan Mee. Note that Wantan Mee found in Kuching aren’t the same as the ones found in Peninsular Malaysia- those are more similar to Kampua Mee. On a side note, non-regulars may claim that Kolo Mee and Kampua Mee taste the same; they definitely don’t.

Kuching Wantan Mee (°o°)
You can have your Kolo Mee served with a bowl of soup on the side, or flood your noodles it; this is known as Mee Soup.

Mee Soup (^_^)
My mom prefers to have her Kolo Mee with less salt and flavouring, while my missus likes her noodles mixed with red sauce- my failure to order her preference caused me trouble a few times, but I’ll spare you the details. Personally, I like mine plain with a saucer of sliced chillies in vinegar on the side.

Kolo Mee in Red Sauce (^_^)
The definition of Kolo Mee Special varies from stall to stall, normally meaning extra noodles with ‘the lot’. If you’re not familiar with the stall it helps to ask before ordering one, just in case you get something unexpected you won’t eat.

Kolo Mee Special (O_o)

Kolo Mee Special with Red Sauce (o_O)
In the movie Udon, Chief Editor Otani tells a story about the discontinued Uko Ferry, where udon is sold on deck. As he describes it:
The noodles were limp and the broth was bland, but it was unbeatable- it was a greeting for people leaving home or returning from afar. A bowl that said “Welcome Home” or “Bon Voyage”.
That particular scene is something I can relate to with Kolo Mee in mind. Speaking to fellow Kuchingites living away from home, I found that most of us share a common yearning for Kolo Mee. During short visits home, it’s an absolute must for me to indulge in the oily noodles. In fact during my last trip to Kuching earlier this year, the first thing I did after arriving at the Kuching airport was to gulp down a bowl of Kolo Mee at a food court opposite the Four Points Hotel, even before reaching home. It wasn’t the nicest I’ve had, but like the udon found on the deck of the Uko Ferry- it was definitely a welcoming home for me.

Indulging Myself with Kolo Mee During Trips Home
Speaking of far from home, I’m aware of attempts taking Kolo Mee interstate and abroad. I suppose the most successful of these is Singapore Jia Xiang Kolo Mee- it’s perhaps the first known franchise marketing Kolo Mee as a key product, albeit Singapore-ised in presentation and to a lesser extent, taste. My missus and I had the pleasure of dining in the VivoCity outlet during our last trip there. Actually, we were just hungry and desperate for food coming off the cable car returning from Sentosa Island… (- -)

Singapore Jia Xiang Kolo Mee Outlet in VivoCity
I’m not going to do a review of the restaurant, since this entry is about Kolo Mee. Garnishing and toppings available are fairly similar to the ones in Kuching, albeit two glaring exceptions: abalone and sambal (。_°). Like I said; Singapore-ised. Impressively, they import the noodles directly from Kuching.
I had the Gold Jia Xiang Mee for SGD8.90 (MYR21.50/AUD8.40). I wasn’t impressed with my meal- to Jia Xiang’s credit, perhaps it’s because I’m too fond of Kuching Kolo Mee (‾へ‾).

Gold Jia Xiang Mee... So Where's the Glitter?
With many varieties and places serving Kolo Mee in Kuching, there are plenty of discussions on where the best ones can be found around town. Personally, my favourite one can be found at a stall run by a friendly lady at Thompson’s Corner Tabuan Jaya, off Lorong Bayor Bukit No. 8A. The stall doesn’t have a name, but here’s a map of the location:
View Larger Map
In recognition of her Kolo Mee being my favourite, I’m presenting her stall the non-prestigious, non-rewarding, and non-existent BenDawos.com Choice Award for Kolo Mee:

BenDawos.com Choice Award for Kolo Mee
While not the healthiest of culinary delights (understatement of the year award), Kuching Kolo Mee in its original form is ‘Soul Food’ for Kuchingites, endearing more to those living away from home. If you’re not a Kuchingite nor ever had the pleasure of savouring a bowl, do so at your next available opportunity. Perhaps you’ll find one bowl is not enough. I’ll leave you with this final picture so you can drool:

A Bowl of Kolo Mee